Monday, 24 January 2011

Tigers and Tea

After those long luxurious days on the beach, we spent just two nights in Kochi before getting out of the busy Indian city life again. This time we headed into the mountains, toward tigers and tea.


Getting on a bus is probably the most common way to travel in Indian, especially between smaller towns without train stations. But, just because it's common doesn't mean it's easy, orderly or on schedule. We planned on leaving Kochi at 1 p.m. on a five-hour bus through the jungle to the Periyar Tiger Reserve in Thekkady. The bus was delayed until 2 p.m. Then it didn't come at all. Then we had to wait until 4 p.m. We did make it, though. We arrived at 11 p.m. to a very irritated guest house owner.

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The ride to Thekkady was the bumpiest, craziest, jungliest bus ride I've ever taken. I wrote a little in a journal along the way and the words are illegible because of the ups and downs and tight turns. Plus the speed. They love leaving late but getting there on time. Along the way we stopped at a few bus stands where men sell all sorts of food from hand carts. The food really does look good, but my foreigner stomach warned me against it.

The best part of arriving so late to a city is when you wake up to a magnificent view of meadow, bison grazing and all. The guest house we stayed in was the most beautiful place I've ever stayed. Birds were overhead, wild flowers were everywhere, hammocks were strung about. And most importantly, the place was clean and had hot water.

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Our first day in Thekkady we lounged around the amazing guest house, made further travel arrangements and had our second ayurvedic massage in three days. We had to rest up for our jungle trek the next day.

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For days before our trek Emily went on and on about preparing for leeches. So, to appease her, I wore long socks with my longest pants. I also wore a long plaid-shirt as well as a bright red baseball hat (very attractive). But, the leeches were prepared for me, it would seem. I was first to be suckled, but not the last.

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The best part of the three hour trek was when we had to take off our shoes and sludge through mud that was ankle deep at some points. Of course, we did a thorough leech check at the end of it.

The point of the trek was to see some wildlife, but I didn't really expect to see anything. Especially in the middle of the day with a group of seven people, two of which were a 65-year-old British couple wearing khaki. We didn't see much on the walk but we did hear elephants. Everyone was super excited. Except our guide. The guide told me that the elephants had just given birth and had been especially aggressive with people the past couple days. It was imperative that we move very quickly through the next kilometer or two of our walk for own safety. But, he was very soft spoken and his English was a little . I was in times of stress. Apparently. So, as the guide and I made our way swiftly through the forest, the rest of the group, including the 65-year-old British couple wearing khaki, blundered behind us.

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The next bus ride was the best ride I've been on in Indian. It was smooth, on time and it was only over-crowded to the point of people hanging out the doors for a short time. The scenery was beautiful, too: the tea plantations of Munnar.


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A popular trend in the south is go ahead and use buildings that are only half built. For example, the hotel we stayed at in Munnar was five floors, each capable of having three to five rooms. But, there were only about four rooms in the whole place that were usable and the rest of the buidling sat as an empty shell. Just cement pillars. From the fifth floor, we had an amazing view of Munnar, though.

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Can you spot Emily?

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Can you spot Emily? Kidding. We were tired and lazy on our full day in Munnar so we took an autorickshaw tour through the hills. It was a beautiful day to sit back and take photos while being driven around tea plantations.

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We were shown other things, such as Kerala's first dam, but we had no interest. Really, it was all about the tea.

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Oh yes, and carrots. Emily needed carrots. She was in luck.

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